Elite Machined Ultralight X Beam with CNC XY Joints for Voron V2.4 and Trident with Titanium Hardware

I'm happy with it because of the precision of the part. But please be aware that this may not be a drop-in replacement. Consider the following:

1. The "ultralight" in the name is not without reason. I purchased this not because I wanted faster prints but because I wanted tighter tolerances on my machine. But this beam was designed for those that want to cut grams off of their gantry. As such, it's designed with an umbilical setup in mind.

This means that there is no mounting point on top of the beam to attach a cable chain. So until I can print out a part which I can attach the cable chain to, I'm securing that end of the cable chain with VHB tape.

2. The standard Voron PCB X-Y endstop switch is not supported. While it looks like it still can be used, you can see the printed part of that PCB switch forcefully contort as you tighten the screw. I.e. a part of the beam sticks out so you actually see the printed part bending in as you tighten the screws. The switches still click, but I think it's a bit disconcerting to see parts that have to be forced into its place instead of sliding in by design.

There are designs floating around to have the Y endstop switch installed in an A-B joint. For the X endstop switch, it looks like the recommendation is to move the X switch to the print head because, if you check the Github page, there are rod pins sticking out at the bottom of the X-Y joints to prod the switch. Although I'm not sure how the rod pins are to be installed since the 5mm holes for them are shallow so they can't be friction-fit. There is an M3-sized screw hole further in, so if you don't want to glue it, you'll have to find a 5mm pin with an M3 screw on the end? I don't have a lathe so I used the head of a M3 x 20 SHCS screw.

3. The included titanium screws are the following:
- M5 x 16 SHCS x4 (To attach the top and bottom halves of the X-Y Joint)
- M5 x 8 BHCS x8 (To attach the X-Y Joint to the X-Axis Beam)
- M3 x 4 SHCS x8 (To attach the X-Y Joints to the Y-Axis Linear Rails)

You need to supply the following (whatever metal/precision you can find):
M5 Reamer Bolt x 4 or M5 x ? SHCS x 4 (The idler axles)
M3 x 8 SHCS x 8+ (To secure the X-axis linear rail to the X-Axis Beam)

4. As a sidenote, the X-axis component of the 3Pc Titanium Backer set does not fit on this X-axis beam. It's too wide. You need to get a dedicated 1Pc variant (link in the description), although you might have to wonder if it's necessary since this beam itself already advertises "reducing thermal expansion"

The beam arrived with missing 4 Titanium screws (I assume they are supposed to be 30mm long).
Also, the lower right joint had a hole which wasn’t tapped all the way.
I contacted the support but haven’t gotten any reply yet.
I installed the beam using regular, non titanium screws of my own, and grinder one screw shorter so that it would fit into the joint…
At this price, I am very disappointed.
Would not recommend the beam at this stage as it seems it’s quality control process isn’t inline with the price.
The only reason I’m giving the product two stars and not one, is because the issues I mentioned, on my beam, are solvable.

It should be very nice once installed (I've only assembled it. I haven't yet installed.) Very thoughtful design and I can see several advantages to it. As an incredibly useful bonus, West3D includes the hardware required for installing this, including M5 bolts (for the XY joints) and M3 bolts for attaching your linear rail. Will this make your printer wash dishes? Of course not. However, the weight reduction and sturdiness just might allow a bit more acceleration.

However, the product isn't perfect. As much time as must have gone into machining this, and considering the cost, some of the M5 holes were either poorly tapped, or something was done to muck up the threads. Screwing into some of them felt like trying to screw through threads with a poor paint job, or even like they were cross-threaded.