Elite Machined Ultralight X Beam with CNC XY Joints for Voron V2.4 and Trident with Titanium Hardware

The X beam and the related XY joints are well machined and nice looking but unfortunately the additional hardware (shoulder bolts and screws) are missing.
I contacted the support one week ago but haven’t gotten any reply yet.
Currently cannot install the parts...

The X beam and the related XY joints went in great, then at the very end I discovered that the X homing switch bracket of my Voron CNC Tap V2 held the switch just high enough that the switch crashed into the lower 5mm X beam mounting bolts and also the new XY joints didn't have a spot that would trigger the switch. So after a few revisions I solved the issue by printing an offset plate on the CNC Tap V2 that lowered the switch by 7mm and a new piece that attached using the two 5mm lower beam mounting bolts and provided a trigger point. You can see that in red hanging down in the picture. Aside from that and having to sand down two of the titanium shoulder bolts for the bearings and idlers to just barely slip on the install went very easily, I haven't done resonance testing yet.

I'm happy with it because of the precision of the part. But please be aware that this may not be a drop-in replacement. Consider the following:

1. The "ultralight" in the name is not without reason. I purchased this not because I wanted faster prints but because I wanted tighter tolerances on my machine. But this beam was designed for those that want to cut grams off of their gantry. As such, it's designed with an umbilical setup in mind.

This means that there is no mounting point on top of the beam to attach a cable chain. So until I can print out a part which I can attach the cable chain to, I'm securing that end of the cable chain with VHB tape.

2. The standard Voron PCB X-Y endstop switch is not supported. While it looks like it still can be used, you can see the printed part of that PCB switch forcefully contort as you tighten the screw. I.e. a part of the beam sticks out so you actually see the printed part bending in as you tighten the screws. The switches still click, but I think it's a bit disconcerting to see parts that have to be forced into its place instead of sliding in by design.

There are designs floating around to have the Y endstop switch installed in an A-B joint. For the X endstop switch, it looks like the recommendation is to move the X switch to the print head because, if you check the Github page, there are rod pins sticking out at the bottom of the X-Y joints to prod the switch. Although I'm not sure how the rod pins are to be installed since the 5mm holes for them are shallow so they can't be friction-fit. There is an M3-sized screw hole further in, so if you don't want to glue it, you'll have to find a 5mm pin with an M3 screw on the end? I don't have a lathe so I used the head of a M3 x 20 SHCS screw.

3. The included titanium screws are the following:
- M5 x 16 SHCS x4 (To attach the top and bottom halves of the X-Y Joint)
- M5 x 8 BHCS x8 (To attach the X-Y Joint to the X-Axis Beam)
- M3 x 4 SHCS x8 (To attach the X-Y Joints to the Y-Axis Linear Rails)

You need to supply the following (whatever metal/precision you can find):
M5 Reamer Bolt x 4 or M5 x ? SHCS x 4 (The idler axles)
M3 x 8 SHCS x 8+ (To secure the X-axis linear rail to the X-Axis Beam)

4. As a sidenote, the X-axis component of the 3Pc Titanium Backer set does not fit on this X-axis beam. It's too wide. You need to get a dedicated 1Pc variant (link in the description), although you might have to wonder if it's necessary since this beam itself already advertises "reducing thermal expansion"