I got the LDO kit at RMRRF (If you know, you know) maker fair. Then spent about three days printing up the plastic bits. Most of it can be made from PLA but you will want something like ABS or PA6 for the print bed if you use the heated bed. The assembly is pretty straight forward but the small size means you would do well to have a pair of tweezers and a "magnet on a stick" in case you drop a nut or bolt somewhere. If you have built a kit printer before, you won't have any problems - For the most part the printer just works. You don't need a Bambu X1 to print the parts, if your printer is a well built kit printer it will work fine. The design is not super picky. It builds as fast as a Delta printer but is WAY easier to tune.
Use the BabyBelt Pro Discord channel while you are building the folks there are super helpful and You will want to keep up with the Orca updates to slice models. You can use Ideamaker as well if you are more comfortable with that.
I built mine using the Marlin 2 firmware for the controller board and it worked seamlessly with the resistive touch screen that comes in the kit. This is one of the nicer interfaces I have used. The hardest part of the build (IMO) is making a belt - Hopefully your kit came with one. Rob has a great "how to" for making belts, and it isn't complex, you just have to be fussy about accuracy.
I had a Raspberry Pi that was not being used and that is my network connection to the controller. The Marlin firmware means you can just plug the USB to your computer or put files on a MicroSD card to print from.
Two things you have to be especially careful about.
1- Do NOT turn off or reset the controller if your hotend is at temperature. The bootup time is several seconds and that is plenty of time for this tiny hotend to heat up and give you a heat-creep jam that you may not be able to fix. (fortunately you can buy another hotend for about $10 if you need it.)
2- On the Marlin firmware if you use the interface's Load or Unload filament you will go into an infinite "paused waiting for user input" loop and have to figure out how to get out of it without resetting the board and potentially triggering the problem number 1 above.
Some of us (builders of BBP) have modified the carriage gantry to have two bolts holding the hot end in. This prevents the potential deviation of the print head that can happen when it strikes the bed during a home operation. There are a couple of other mods that are popular, but I recommend you build the base unit before you start experimenting.
This is the most fun I have had building a kit printer is ages!
Have fun!
Works great
Works great!
Fan worked great while it lasted. However after only a few months of use one of the two on my dragonburner died, and the other is starting to slow down too.
They put out alot of air but aren't very reliable.
Picked this up for printing abrasives. High quality as expected with fast shipping.
Good deal/combo for Revo nozzles.
Ambrosia filament prints great and has great color choices too. So far, I've printed several spools of the ASA and I have not had any warping (X1C printer with Cryogrip Glacier build plate.
Did not want to wait several months for the Snapmaker cover. Fits perfectly and looks good.
I have been a mechanic, welder, machinist, and I've been modding printers since the RepRap days. I have specialty tools coming out of my ears. I do not own a 0.1Nm torque wrench.
The fact that this expensive niche tool is required to assemble the hotend is not mentioned anywhere except for a little card you get after opening the product. I would not have purchased this hotend knowing this, and I certainly would not have opened it.
Amazing quality. I swapped from a relatively fresh plate from another reputable brand (no issue), mesh range was cut in half. Extremely satisfied and I have a singular print on this.... will probably be my go-to sheet for PETG.
I researched hotends for weeks before choosing this one. Nowhere was it mentioned that a 0.1 Nm torque wrench is required. That should be broadly advertised.
Not only do I not have a means of measuring torque that small, but I don't feel comfortable putting something that frail in my machines. The 2F gets good reviews so there must be something to it, but it was not for me.
Put a bunch of these on some Microns im building. They work great. Probably going to get another for the 0.2 I'm building soon.
Great quality and works perfectly quick delivery Thanks West3D!
Wanted peace of mind for the front idlers and decided to also get the Beefy Z Idlers as well. Everything fit together nicely and had all bolts I needed plus some extra just in case. Very happy with both kits.
Had to replace my StealthBurner toolhead board that came with my original kit and this fit flawlessly. Was also compatible with the G2E which the previous board didn't fit without modification so that was great as well. Very easy to setup, with no fuss.
Perfect kit when you don’t want to piece together all the fasteners yourself.
After about 2,000 hours on my stock gears, I started noticing some feeding issues and decided it was time to swap them out. These have been working great so far — smooth, easy upgrade, and my printer feels back to running like it should.
For those that have put their nose up to the door just to peek at their print with the stock light, you know who you are, need this QOL upgrade in their lives. Literally night and day difference.
The only downside to this filament is that its frequently sold out.
Print quality is S tier, partially due to the GF, which greatly helps the common issues of warping/shrinking.
Run it at 280 C, for 26 mm3/s, which is a significantly higher volumetric flow than I've found with any other GF or CF asa or abs. Just great stuff.
I did have a small issue with the edges of the roll becoming tacky when drying at 70 (which is exactly what is stated in the description, and is 100% accurate), so the spool clip is good plan and solves the issue.
**NOTE** Look at Fysetc's official H36 v2 wiki before powering on! The heater + and - are labelled incorrectly on some versions.
I'm a huge fan of this board. It supports 5v and/or 24v fans (jumper selectable), supports usb or canbus, and packs more IO ports than I could fill. There are 5 IO ports on the board (three 3-pin and one 4-pin that acts as IO 0+1, all voltage-selectable via jumpers), and using the pin headers you can effectively add up to 7 more!
v2 increases the temperature range these boards can operate in.
I'm currently building a Stealtchanger and these boards will be used on every toolhead.
