Using this for a year on my trident running leviathan and canbus. Was it more than I needed yes but adding box turtle soon so having the extra headroom is always a good idea.
Been in use 1 year on trident with leviathan no issues even when pushing speeds at 2.2 amps per driver that’s just over 211 watts which is why I went with the 350w version.
Does what is described on the tin.
Kind of awkward to use, you have to really make sure that the corner you are building is jammed flat and it's easy for this to not be the case. The tolerances are also not particularly great and I got better alignment by following the intial usage up with bracing against a spare extrusion.
These are *not* enough to build a square frame alone. You definitely still need a flat surface. They were most useful for building the top of a cube frame, since you can "hang" the crossbars off two and get very close to perfect alignment.
Beautiful color prints best when printed slow and found 240c to work well. Does require several days of drying before printing and must be printed straight out the dryer.
Ordered to replace the dragon high flow in my Switchwire that was getting clogs when using ERCF. Was really surprised when it was the high flow version. So far running perfectly with no more heat creep issues.
Knock on wood.
This bed is way flatter than the one that came with my Siboor kit. Overall, with the PI heater, nice "Hot Zone" plate, and thicker size, this one looks way better too.
So after over a year debating this purchase I finally did it and couldn’t be happier. The ability to set a humidity level and it just maintains that for as long as you want is awesome. Dryers filament faster and more evenly than any of my other dryers too. Wish I had bought it sooner.
Coming from an X1C, I knew to expect some fiddling. I think I did about 20 hours to get usable first layers, and for all I know this is small and reasonable for a nice Voron clone like this. Setup is very straightforward and the value for the price is excellent.
There are a set of extremely common issues it seems almost all people encounter that you can find posts on Reddit about: You must make a toolhead "seatbelt". Most chose to dremel off the bottom fan vents. The inductive bed probe sensor is inconsistent; with a few config file changes it's more manageable, but many people either replace it or frantically adjust the Z Offset for every print.
The bed assumes a "taco" shape when heated; for many, this happens to a 1mm level that the adaptive med mesh cannot fully compensate for. Shim hacks exist.
Note it's a real lift to get on mainline Klipper and I don't know if it's worth it unless you're planning extensive mods.
In addition to the calibrations in the setup manual, you'll need to adjust belt tension, extruder gear force, fix the extrusion length, and calibrate filament. I think these things might be "well of course" for most Ender/Voron/Sovol folks, but it will "teach you a lot" coming from a "just works" printer. I needed CoreXY, the build volume, and an open frame for my project (without paying for a Prusa XL), so here I am.
If planning to use with an enclosure, there's a whole other set of issues to look into first.
These 4010 fans are really high flow compared to all others in the market. They are also required for the Xol tool head. Grab a pair for any of the tool heads which require a set of 4010 fans (Dragon burner, Mini-Stealthburner, Xol)
If you have a Dragon v2 (SF or HF), this will be a drop-in replacement. If You have a v1, the black heatsink won't quite fit this, but you can source a v2 heatsink and upgrade your v1 to a v2! The HF upgrade is great and allows me to better use the speed of my machine.
Will be procuring the remaining sizes in due time. Required for filled filaments in my opinion. Great quality. I appreciate the larger 7mm head size as well, easier to clean and find with the wrench. No reasons to swap back to brass for same size nozzle.
absolutely love the Revo system and the ObXidian Nozzles are my go to just so i don't have to worry about the filament i run through them
Love this color and man does it ever print smooth. Never disappointed with Ambrosia filament. Currently using for 3rd printer build using ambrosia.
This filament is SO beautiful. Printing tips that I have found resulted in best results.
Nozzle 240 printing, 250 first layer
Speeds 75% of Ellis’ PIF profiles.
The slower you print it the more intense the shine and color transition.
LDO makes fantastic 2.4 kits. I couldn’t recommend these enough espesically if you want good, solid, motors.
I was in a pinch from a failed inductive sensor and ready to upgrade. With no working printer, I needed a fully completed kit to get going again. The printed parts were great quality and the assembly of the Klicky was top notch. Definitely check out the GitHub and take your time with the configurations before walking away!
The summary for those who don't want to read, this thing is amazing and its frankly a bargain for what you get.
Previous to Chube, I have killed 7 hotends including some pricier hotends like Dragon UHF and Mosquito. I lost around $800 on hotends in 6 months only printing around 12kg of filaments, this cost doesn't even include the substantial opportunity cost resulting from downtime. Chube Air at $260 and Conduction at $320 is an amazing deal for anyone printing large quantities of filament for industrial or personal use, especially considering the competition's offering at a much higher price bracket.
Team Chube, this is a top tier design and I am extremely looking forward to what you folks have in store next.
I absolutely love this filament. The little bit of glitter just adds that extra element to prints. I love using it for eyes. It really brings them to life with the sparkle.
Terrestrial blue looks amazing. Takes long to dry though because of the cardboard spools.