Really pretty filament! This stuff prints great at 260C nozzle, 100C bed. I measured good results with a volumetric flow rate of up to 25 mm3/s on a standard E3D Revo 0.6mm. The glitter isn't too much, which is good - it's just enough for a little sparkle to make prints stand out beyond non-glitter filament. For $1 more than non-glitter Ambrosia, I'm a big fan of this stuff!
A few scrubs while the nozzle was hot was enough to get all the caked-on burnt ASA off my nozzle. Will be converting into an automatic scrubber soon!
Awesome kit! Everything was nicely labeled and organized, and in good shape. I'm really happy I went with a kit - I couldn't imagine having to source all of these odds and ends!
Was recommended this nozzle and it has been awesome on a dragon UHF. Can feel the quality just by holding the nozzle in your hand. Print quality is really good no issues and perfect for what I was looking for. Will buy a couple more
Awesome add on to my printer easy to install and brighter den the stock light.
I think I've purchased a dozen or so rolls of Ambrosia PLA now... This stuff works perfectly well as low as 190C, but I typically run 200.
Ambrosia is West3D's house brand filament, and I have nothing but good things to say about them. This particular orange PETG has printed consistently and reliably every time. The attached photo is a fan duct for my SV07 Plus.
Got high-end bearings, and they don't fit the shaft; all are oversized. Would not recommend!
This kit seems to include good quality parts and is well organized. In addition to this kit, battery, and radios you'll need a LiPo battery charger, an XT60 connector for the battery, grease, and thread locker. Also, if building the winch truck, this kit does not include the N20 motors and ESCs for the winches.
Working good for reverse bowden from spool to toolhead.
I used this to make a progress bar on the bed of my Trident. It's working great.
I have to admit that our first encounter wasn’t easy. Getting my first Orbitool v2 up and running took some time. Thankfully, a West3D team member on Discord spent an hour with me helping out until we finally got it working. Since then, this is already my third Orbitool v2. I’ve tried other toolheads and even the Nitehawk, but it’s just not the same. I don’t like them.
This beast, besides fitting the Orbiter with filament sensor like a glove, has handled PA12 prints in a 60°C chamber at 310°C on a Mosquito for 23 hours straight. So yeah, I’m more than happy. In my opinion, it performs better than the BTT CAN, Nitehawk, etc.
Like I always say, if more people knew about this little beast, it would probably outshine the BTT CAN.
What don’t I like? The cable. They should really offer a longer option, at least 2 meters. I've had to remake the cable for all my Orbiters.
What would I love to see? A tech upgrade with a mini USB compatible with Beacon3D. If not that, then at least something to make it compatible, so we can skip the extra wiring.
Cheers!
It is easiser to install and run smoother than stock LDO rail.
and West3D youtube videos are very helpful.
I chose this drier solution because I live in a high humidity climate and my filaments can show it. It's nice to dry and store in the same container, and I like how I can easily use it while printing. It's just really spendy! $30 for each spool of filament, not including the drier base. It works for my needs as I print mostly functional parts and am not concerned about color (mostly black). So 4 boxes to keep my 4 main filaments in optimal conditions is a no brainer.
For folks who regularly print in a higher humidity environment but don't use a lot of different options of filament, it's super convenient!
The E3D Revo Voron PZ Probe Works as intended once set up. Online documentation for that setup is a bit scattered on E3D's website but adequate. When used with a Stealthburner on a Voron 2.4, bed probing works as intended without the additional weight or relative looseness of Voron TAP. Installation on the suggested modified X-carriage is a bit tricky as the thin and fragile ribbon cable must be routed to behind the toolhead... perhaps the alternate mounting would be easier.
For those that might be concerned with earthing / grounding the nozzle, the Voron PZ Probe heatsink does not provide a good electrical connection between the top mounting bolts and the Revo Hotside, so one would want to earth the Revo heater if this is a concern to you.
Otherwise, it replaces Voron TAP nicely!
The 0.4mm E3D Revo HTX nozzle works great with PPS-CF10 printing at 340C. It works just as well with ABS at 260C, seemingly better than a standard brass nozzle and much better than a generic no-name Revo-ish nozzle.
The Revo HT Hotside allows use of a standard heating element and thermistor in the Revo ecosystem, including with the new Revo PZ Probe Coldside. The included PT1000 sensor and "High Precision" 40w heater allow for printing temperatures up to 400C. The heater block appears to be plated copper and fits well. The PT1000 sensor seems to work well when properly configured and it works well with a 0.4 HTX nozzle when printing PPS-CF10.
However, after just a few prints, the 40w "high precision" heater stopped working. Infuriatingly, just touching the wiring caused the measured resistance to return from infinite to the usual 16 ohms or so, returning the printer to service until I got around to replacing the heater.
Failing E3D heater elements has happened to me before so I have a few spares. Oddly, the standard Revo heaters have never let me down.
So, minus one star for a failed heater on an expensive Hotside.... I would have likely been better served with buying just the bare block.
Great Product love it.
For whatever reason the driver_sgthrs on both the X and Y axis are way off in the printer.cfg, causing the Y to hit kind of hard and the X to grind horribly when homing. I set them to 130 for X and 150 for Y and that seems to be doing well. Also, there’s no Orca slicer profile so you have to make your own and figure out the maximum acceleration and speeds which is a pain. The default web interface is Mainsail and I couldn’t get it to switch to Fluidd. Updating the software also just bricks it. I wouldn’t recommend this to anyone really. Just get a Pi/pico and a hdmi+usb touchscreen and make your own. Or get the SV06 Ace instead of the standard SV06.
This is a great kit it has almost everything thing you need to wire up your voron. Highly recommend this kit.
I got an open box LDO V0.2 kit that was missing the power supply. This is a perfect replacement and has the added bonus of having PFC built in, so no need to set 110 or 220V
The Box Turtle kit from LDO was noted as pre-order but it arrived within one week Thanks to West3D. I check over the inventory in the kit with the provided BOM checklist and every item was included as expected from LDO. I am working on the printed parts now and very excited to get the unit up and running. Thanks West3D and LDO
The NiteHawk SB from LDO was delivered quickly from West3D. I have inspected the kit and I am now in the process of building a few parts to customize the installation as there are many alternatives to match your preference. The LDO kit is as you would expect, well stocked and ready to go.
Would be even better with a gridfnity bin for it!
