The kit went together fine I hade a few missing m3x8 but I had some on hand the organization of the kit could be better and you are going to want some DuPont Connectors on hand but overall a good kit
Great alternative to the Omron G3NA-210B, and honestly this is the preferred unit unless you're managing to attach a heatsink. In that case, Omron has a lot more choices.
IF YOU ARE RUNNING 120V AND YOUR BED HEATER IS OVER 350W, YOU REALLY SHOULD PICK THIS. Derating allows for 3A up to 40C air cooled with no heatsink, so anything beyond that you'll start having a bad time.
This is a huge step-up from the stock PEI plate. I have had very smooth and clean 1st layers with this plate.
Enclosure was a great kit. As someone else said, the base at the bottom for the drag chain broke for me as well. I had to download and print another one. Small bit as well, but one of the **** grommets on the glass door was also missing. Resolution pending. I would recommend this kit, just be aware of a possible hiccup or two, but not from West3D.
Used these on my Prusawire build and they worked great also I love the color. Super smooth on the X and Z axis would definitely purchase again.
Used this on my Prusawire build and it worked perfectly. I would definitely recommend greasing it before use, there are plenty of tutorials online for how to do this
Excellent ASA for the price and quality! If there line stays at this cost, I will be switching filament suppliers to Ambrosa.
I've never had a pulley fit on a shaft so perfectly like these they fit real snug so there will be no wobble I am happy with these
Five stars if you're looking for an input shaper that runs off of the pi gpio I thought this was going to be a simple plug directly into the tool head and leave it so I'm going to hold on this for another project and find something more compatible to my set up.
Summary -
Pros: Does what it says on the tin, great for engineering filaments, very quiet, cheaper than the closest alternative.
Cons: Appears to be open-loop (no actual temp control), not well insulated and leaks hot air, no humidity maintenance mode, not a dry box.
Elephant in the room up front, this is a rebadged Goofoo FD01 Pro, an existing product from a Chinese manufacturer. This is not a bad thing in my mind, the thought of manufacturing things at scale that could burn my house down is less unsettling than if they were building onesies and twosies with less testing. The FD01 Pro is nearly impossible to import into the US yourself, and it does fit an otherwise unfilled niche, so I very much appreciate West3D bringing it here.
The closest competitor is probably the Sunlu E2. Between the two, the capabilities are pretty similar but with four pretty big differences. The first is that the Filament Toaster cannot be set to maintain a humidity level. I know the Sunlu S4 has a maintenance mode where it will kick on automatically at 30% RH and drop it back down on a cycle, and I think the E2 can do the same. As far as I can tell, you can't do that with the Filament Toaster. The second major difference is that the E2 can sort of be used like a dry box, although not a very good one. There are dessicant slots, and the lids seal well enough to prevent air circulation from outside. The Filament Toaster is not sealed at all, so filament should be removed after drying and sealed properly. Neither of these things are deal-breakers, it's an expensive dry box when vacuum bags are so cheap. Third, there does not appear to be any closed loop feedback. The heating element seems to simply cycle on and off on predefined duty cycles. This is probably good enough, but the E2 does have an internal temperature sensor and actively controls the temperature. I could be wrong about the Toaster, but I don't see any evidence of closed-loop behavior, and there's no mention in the manual, so I think it's unlikely. Finally, the Toaster can go a little hotter than the E2 (120°C vs 110°C). I don't know
what I would realistically be doing that needs that, but it's likely important if you have the ability to play with PEEK or Ultem. Of course, these differences must be considered with respect to the price disparity, the Toaster is considerably cheaper than the E2, but still only a few spools of exotic filament between them.
My Filament Toaster is replacing a Sunlu S4. The S4 has a 70°C limit, which has become a bottleneck for nylon, polycarbonate, and engineering composites. The Toaster is a very convenient way to handle drying these high temp exotics.
It's surprisingly quiet. There is a circulation fan running in it any time it's drying, but I cannot hear it at all. I can hear the click of the relay turning the heating bar on and off, but it's quite gentle and doesn't keep me from falling asleep or wake me up. The S4 isn't loud per se, but you can absolutely hear the fan running and it toes the line between calming white noise and annoying.
The missing fifth star is for the lack of insulation. It's a toaster oven. The frame is not meant to retain heat for hours and hours, and while the double-layer sheet metal (maybe with insulation inside?) does a better job retaining/isolating heat than I would have thought, the outside still does get pretty hot when you're drying high temp materials, and the single pane glass door is not something you should touch. There is also a decent gap around the door through which hot air escapes, and the vents on the side imply that's by design. It's already sweat stain weather in Texas 80% of the year, and I don't feel great about using electricity to make heat only to use more electricity to move it outside. I understand that air does need to be vented in order to release the moisture, but I'd prefer that be done in a more controlled manner. A door seal and a double-pane door would be ideal, along with some more frame insulation to keep it from melting its surroundings, but it's not so unreasonable as is for me to be upset.
Overall, I'm glad I got this. It absolutely does what I need it to. I imagine it's also good for annealing, although the manual proclaims this is ONLY for drying (despite the machine including a tray, perhaps this is for large spools laying flat). Use at your own discretion. I appreciate the capabilities and convenience this adds to my arsenal, and it was well worth the pre-order batch wait.
Does the job great however I feel its a bit to big as I struggle to close my printer door.
Out of all the build plates I have tried. G10, G11, BUILDTAK, PEX, ENERGETIC PEI/PEA, ARKFLY, POPWEB, WHAM BAM PEX, BIGTREETECH AND KADAVI. This build plate blows all those out of the water I mostly use PLA, PETG, PCTG, PET-CF, PA6, PA12 AND PPS, all of these performed above my expectations after 50 prints no signs or deterioration which is insane. I highly recomend this plate for all printers snapmaker, elegoo, sovol and qidi as the go to plate you will never have to replace.
I went in to grab a larger nozzle and some glass filled filament to test out and the folks at West3d were stellar as always. The nozzle/hot end is great and swapping them in the H2S is straightforward. Having a local shop is amazing for my projects and getting questions/supplies quickly but absolutely horrible for my wallet. I'm hoping to find the West3d support group soon. I hear you get a coin if you manage to go 30 days without buying filament just because it sounds cool.
The Kit is labeled to each hardware that makes the assembly process easier. I printed mines with various of materials such as PCTG, ABS/ASA, and TPU. The headband is likely the challenge of this build because it has to be printed out of TPU; which punishes if isnt dry. The sound quality is up there with those expensive headphones. Also another pro too is that parts can be easily be printed should it break and the ear cups themselves can be easily sourced.
This thick pullover hoodie wears like a warm hug from Grandma and looks awesome. It’s what to wear when you are out and when running your printer non-stop for your projects. Consider buying 1 size larger so you don’t have to worry about any potential washer/dryer shrinkage because you’ll wear this repeatedly. I highly recommend and hope West3D will restock soon.
I had repeated bed adhesion issues with large parts on my Core One using the Prusa Satin sheet, despite dish soap and 90% Isopropyl alcohol bed cleans and using brims and adjusting temps. I switched to the Cryogrip Glacier Pro build plate and PETG and ASA sticks where it did not using the Satin plate. I quickly wipe down this plate with 90% isopropyl inbetween prints and wash it with dish soap maybe after a dozen or more prints. It has really improved my success. Nobody wants a multi-hour print disappointment — so try this print surface!
I use the 0.6 mm nozzle for abrasive filaments like glow in the dark filaments and CF, works great
I actually use these blades in a few projects that has little to do with filament cutting systems, and it's a lot safer than trying to grind/mill down a regular razer blade. Highly recommend, especially at its price
