Really helped light up my V0.2. I mounted them them Maple Leaf Maker's Matchstick Diffusers
This made tensioning the belts on my 350mm V2.4 soooo easy. I was getting frustrated with using an app and getting to 110hz. The print quality is superb. You do need need to RTFM, as I used it completely wrong at first
I took a chance on these, but they are gritty even after multiple clean and lube cycles. I've used various brands of rails on 3 different Voron 2.4 builds, and these felt wrong so I reached out for support. They claimed they would break in, but out of the box, I was unimpressed and ordered a different brand to replace a worn X-axis.
The instructions that they give you for this device requires that you either install it from the start or you have to backup and restore your current configurations to use it.
That being said, I've found that if you can ssh into the device and then modify the klipperscreen moonraker host settings to point to the IP address of your current printer (https://klipperscreen.readthedocs.io/en/latest/Configuration/#main-options), you can connect to your printer over wifi and remotely control it. No need to rip stuff out, reprogram anything, or run a long usb cable from the printer motherboard to this device.
Why would you want to do this? I'm not sure. I thought it was convenient having a touchscreen interface for printer control set up a couple feet away from the printer. I could use a phone, but having a dedicated kiosk in the printer room made my life easier. I mean, compared to leaving the room to find the phone and then opening a browser and navigating to the mainsail web gui. A tad pricey, sure. But the screen is crisp and it's responsive to the touch.
Anyway, it's also an underpowered SBC, so if you don't want to use it to run klipper and control your printer, I suppose you can use it for other linux things, like a NAS controller. Screen and wifi included, but you need to provide the keyboard and mouse.
As a sidenote, the wifi signal might be weak. If you don't plan to use this tablet right next to the router, you might need to take the case apart and pull the antenna out from inside so that its signal is not being attenuated by the giant metal heatsink. Me? I disconnected the original antenna, left it right where it was, and plugged in another one that I had lying around. Saved me several disassembly and reassembly steps. IPEX connector.
West3d is the only place I shop for what my printers need! The best service hands down l! Also the people there actually care.
As with anything I've ever ordered or gotten from west, it's the highest quality. I am absolutely 100% satisfied. It may only be a hardware kit, but the peace of mind that I don't have to hunt down 10 of this or 20 of that... Is priceless. And I don't think I could have put together the same hardware for less. Absolutely recommend it.
I have picked these up twice now when they pop mostly just to keep an assortment of spares around in all kinds of sizes!
These rails are working great on my Voron 0. Just clean them and lube them and they have worked flawless for me for over 200 hours!
Please note that while it serves the same function as the RPi4, this isn't an exact drop-in replacement.
Basically, should you need to burn an OS to the board, I'd like to point out that you don't use the Raspberry Pi OS. Instead, you need to use BTT's version (Google: OS System image for CB1). While it's open source and you can get a precompiled O/S image with Klipper installed, it's definitely not as well-supported.
So why a CB1? There was a time where shortages of Raspberry Pi made it hard to find one for a reasonable price. Also, it turns out that RPi's are overpowered when you want to dedicate a SBC for 3D Printing. CB1's are significantly less powerful, but they fulfill the job just fine.
Also, Mantas have a slot for these boards to plug in so you don't need to run a 5V supply and wires to a separate board. It's a bird's nest under my printer and without labels I need to trace which wire goes where. Having less boards and power supplies means having fewer wires. Who doesn't like that?
It's simple to use, but the manual provides some helpful tidbits that you will definitely need to know.
Like how to use the tool and the dial readings that you should aim for for the AB and Z belts.
And don't toss out that strange wire thingy that's hooked to the tool at the start and you need to remove before you can use the tension meter. According to the manual, that's actually used for calibrating.
Straightforward to assemble. Instructions on the Github page.
Designed so that it can be lifted up and pulled out if you need to maintain your printer without the door getting in your way. No tools needed to uninstall.
The blue is very lovely. Looks like a brighter blue than anodized titanium actually.
Before you can install the door, make sure that all STL's are printed in the Github link. 1 of everything except for the Hinges. You'll need 2 of each for the sleeves and solids. Solids hold the pins, sleeves hold the linear bearings.
I found that the hardest part was installing the rubber seal. You get a rather strangely shaped rubber strip and I found that the indent in the middle wasn't for the acrylic front panel. If you tried to mount it that way, you would find that the panel does not slide in all the way. Instead, the indent fits onto the 2020 extrusion and the panel is inserted behind the rubber seal.
Great size for my Trident 350. Pay attention to what mount you print, mine hung a little too low and hit the table. The 7 inch one is probably overkill. This felt like the sweet spot.
Really happy with my V0 build. Fun project. Keep in mind there isnt a lot of space for additional parts in the electronics areas. I tried to put too much and its tight.
I originally bought a cheap umbilical cable off of Amazon, and I had all kinds of problems with my printer. Thermistor was constantly spiking and giving crazy readings, fans wouldn't turn in other times. It was all super frustrating. I took apart my printer to try to diagnose the problem, and that did help. I reflowed the solder on my umbilical boards and that didn't do anything. Finally I swapped out the crappy umbilical cable for this one and now I'm back in business. Highly recommend!
Came out of the package clean (still cleaned after opening anyway, just in case). The carraiges felt slightly gritty before applying grease, but smooth as butter once the grease was all worked in.
The only thing I would want different would be a black option for the rail itself, just like the West3D rails. Even without that though, these rails are fantastic, especially for the price.
Fabric feels great and doesn't smudge my glasses if I'm too lazy to find a cleaning cloth.