Always reliable
Picked up a bottle at RMRRF recently - sauce is awesome. A bit too mild for me, but the rest of the family loves it. Great on BBQ, meats, and makes a pretty nice counterpoint for roasted vegetables.
I've been using sunlus 4.8k spools for a few years now. But they're become harder and harder to find, and are roughly the same price. I'm glad I tried Ambrosia cause it's great! Printed better than my sunlu stuff and doesn't seem to off-gas as much, warping is seems to be less, and the quality is higher!
LOVE my g2 it's been so much better than my old cw2 once you dial it in. All I can say is take your time when building it.
Bought these like a year ago and waited to do the pin mod until I was able to get new parts for my motion system. Unfortunately I didn't check them when I got them. They don't fit the "BDM' darkside kit or my old bearings at all! And there is a cut mark on one of the pins. I take partial blame for not checking sooner. But, I also wish QC on these was a little better. Not sure if it was a bad batch or what was going on. West3d has always been great. This was the one off, the majority of parts I get from them are top tier.
I know this toaster oven is capable of more than 120°c i wish it could get to a temperature a little higher than 120c for annealing purposes, some PPS filaments recommend annealing at 130c° or more, although it seems to do the job well and dries my PPS filament just fine I wish the annealing feature could have a higher set temperature. Best bang for buck though, dollar for dollar this thing is better than any drier I have seen on the market. 100% worth every penny!
Came quick and exactly what i been looking for so now i can stop cutting my other 3m tape in half!!! Very satisfied!
Like all PPS-CF, this is brittle. Like crazy brittle. Once loaded, it prints beautifully. Dimensionally accurate, chemically resistant up to 200° C for almost everything, and 220° C continuous use temperature.
I anneal this at 206C, so it's never going to present a problem in my heated chamber printers.
Prints great at 340/105/60 and makes smooth, warp free parts. I add an additional 0.10mm z offset in the filament profile in the Print Start code, and then remove the extra offset in the Print End code. On Mueller smooth PEI (and also textured PEI) I use a thin layer of my low viscosity bed glue to act as a separation layer. It likes to overbond to PEI, so the thin adhesive prevents PEI damage during removal.
Here's a K3 purge bucket just printed in the PPS-CF, along with some other PPS-CF and PPS-GF.
Building different toolhead for my Voron 2.4. Went with the Galileo 2 extruder kit. Perfect products as always. The toolhead is a XOL.
We have an H2S for rapid prototyping as well as production components for our machinery business. Due to the wide array of filaments used from basic PLA to PPS-GF (pretty much the limit of the H2S) I would rotate between 3 different Darkmoon plates. Shoutout to Darkmoon as the quality and value are top notch! However, the Tyson T-6436 can now meet all my needs/requirements which, simply put, makes my life easier. Not a fan of shiny parts, so I verified with both West3D and Tyson that I could scuff one side to get a matte/satin finish and it has worked beautifully! Had to run some production parts in Protopasta HTPLA-CF so haven't tried anything difficult but I have no doubt it'll handle whatever I throw at it. I will say preheating this slab of a plate is a must and recommend consulting Tyson's chart for temps as they are likely higher than what you're used to running. Thankful to have stumbled across this, and for West3D carrying the best components out there!
Finally got around to reviewing this. I got 4 of these and love them, plastic, pa, petg all stick like a champ. I can't for the life of me to get asa to stay though. Oh and the caution, get you some wide kapton tape to put over your magnet sheet before use. You can see on my one sheet were it has started pulling bits of magnet off.
Prints as great as it looks.
Prints as great as it looks
Still putting together my Milo V1.5, but the Syclla board works as advertised.
Bought this board to allow my Milo V1.5 with a Scylla control board to use my ethernet setup. Works as advertised.
I appreciate having the option to replace the gearset of my Galileo 2 extruder when the bearings and motor are still in good shape. Though the extruder was still producing excellent results, I found during routine maintenance that there was a lot of wear within the planetary set. I consider the gears to be expendable and really appreciate being able to restore the Galileo 2 to like-new condition for just a few dollars.
I have worn through a couple Bambu hardened steel nozzles and with the drop in replacement from Phaetus I am looking forward to a longer usability and the excellent performance and quality of prints my first few prints have yielded.
This simple, but clever, well designed tool makes accurate belt tensioning a breeze. Just a few seconds and it's done!
I slap one of these onto every printer i have
I've had clogs before. They're annoying, and sometimes stubborn.
The worst of the worst end up with the toolhead open. I've gotten pretty quick at that, but it's still annoying.
I recently had the mother of all clogs, high up in the hotend where there was nothing I could do about it. I tried cold pulls, I tried pulling the nozzle and clearing it with a torch, I tried opening the toolhead and swapping the PTFE, I tried pushing with a thin allen wrench, and I could not get this clog out for anything.
I tried basically everything in my playbook, other than torching the hotend itself. I try to avoid that if I can, but I was getting close to that point. Instead, I ordered a NoClogger--it's worth a shot, even though I'm skeptical. It would maybe make some future lighter clogs quicker to deal with, even if not in this case, right?
It still took effort. It wasn't a miracle that "just worked" immediately. This was a really bad clog. But with some alternating pushes from above, then below, back and forth, eventually I was able to work the clog out of the hotend. My printer is now printing as well as it's ever printed, without any further damage. And now I have a tool in my kit that I can use quickly for less problematic clogs, to make my life that much easier.
It's cheap enough that I wish I picked one up sooner, and I'm going to keep it handy from now on.
This ASA prints great at 265/110 with a 60-70c chamber. Its clean, not stringy, and strong. I love the Fluorescent Neon Green, it has a nice glow to it but its not overly shiny.
Just slapped right in and go. Very satisfied.
Bought a full set so I can run 7 color prints and am not disappointed.